Tech Tip: Hood Clearance can be easily measured by wadding up a piece of aluminum foil, placing it on the existing air cleaner, close the hood and it will squeeze down so you can measure it for clearance.
FBO 3/16 Aramid Fiber gaskets....$10.00 ea.
Kit Pricing: 2 FBO
3/16 Gaskets, Stud kit and 1 FBO 1/2" x 4 hole spacer........$79.00
|Carb Spacers...One Hole or Open Vs 4
The facts are a one hole or open plenum spacer will improve your top end power by adding a larger volume to the manifold. A 4 hole spacer on the other hand will improve Idle quality, bottom end tork, throttle response and 60' times.
In most applications the benefits of the 4 hole spacer is what we're looking for. So you've made the decision go with a 4 hole spacer, but there is dozens to choose from, everyone's got a fancy Dyno sheet with all sorts of Voodoo claims and nonsense, here's the facts:
The holes must be the same size as the venturi or you'll tumble the air and defeat the purpose, would you leave a .100 lip in your intake runner?
Billet aluminum is probably the best material to construct a high quality precision machined spacer from.
In most Street Strip Muscle Car applications we have found that about 1" of spacer is all you need. If you going for the record and want to tweak that last .001 out of your 60' time then experimentation with more spacers will probably get you that little extra, the average enthusiast will be happy with the overall higher performance and low end tork you'll get from about a 1" 4 hole spacer.
I run a 3"- 4 hole spacer under my Race Demon, 11.62 out of an all iron, all motor, 318CID in a 3100# car. I started with 2 and ended up with 4 and 5 gaskets, it just kept going faster so kept adding spacers until I ran out of studs.
Carburetor Base Gaskets:
A gasket is a gasket is a gasket right?...WRONG!
We've already discussed the advantages of a 4 hole spacer and we know how they improve bottom end tork and idle quality. So why not a gasket cut from the same CnC program to fit the spacer perfectly?
Common sense right? So we did just that, now we have extended the venturi even further, created no disturbance of the air flow and one more very important thing...we have effectively insulated the deadly enemy of fuel.....HEAT
This is not Hocus Pocus presented by some Marketing 101 graduate, it's common Racer sense, keep it cool and keep it flowing.
Never install a fuel line or component without first flushing it clean with carb cleaner.
Always oil AN fittings before assembly.
Do Not Over Tork, about 10-12#s is all AN's require.
No sealers of any kind on flare or AN fittings, they do not seal on the threads.
We recommend Permatex 14A Teflon Pipe Thread sealing paste for all NPT or tapered thread fittings.
O-ring, Compression and AN fittings require NO Sealers.
Do Not use Teflon Tape on Fuel
|So you've decided to get your new
you add the 2 Aramid Fiber Gaskets, a nice billet spacer and your hood closes...Success!
So now you need to get fuel to it, you look down at the greasy old fuel pump and steel line twisted in behind the alternator and realize that something is different and it's not going to be that easy......
We can make your job simple, safe and quick but you need the rest of the parts to make it all work. Our FBO Dual Feed kits are made right in our shop, we cut the lines assemble the fittings and make sure that everything will work. We use nothing but Precision Fittings, and Parker Hose all Made in the USA. All our assemblies are built from AN style re-usable fittings.
With cheap swaged hose ends, when you damage a component and you will, you'll need to replace the entire dual feed kit. In the long run your way better off with quality. Remember, fuel burns, it's attached to your pride and joy, if leaks your going to have a fire and a big one, this is no place to go cheap.
So now you need to get the fuel from that pump up to your new Carb. We custom build fuel delivery lines with or without our billet aluminum filters. Most Mopar and Chevy's will take our standard kit with filter and hose coupler, they come with the adapter fitting to convert the stock inverted flare to the AN connection, screw it in, connect your line kit and your ready to fire it off.
|Tech Tips: Be sure to install the aluminum
washer between the bowl and the Bowl fittings. Do Not over tork, you
will strip the bowl and we can't repair them.
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