DO NOT be fooled by Claims of 30,000-50,000-80,000V coils, the coil will only produce the voltage it takes to jump the spark from the electrode of the plug to the ground strap. If you plugs are gapped at .028 and your cylinder pressure maxes at day 2500PSI it may only take 20,000V to jump the spark. If you widen the gap to .050 it may take 30,000V to jump the spark, if the coil can produce the voltage it will fire, if it's not up to the task the engine may mis-fire. Ignition systems work by creating a resistance, plug gaps, fuel density within the combustion chamber as well as the gap between the rotor and cap contact point all contribute The higher those resistance points the harder the coil has to work to get that spark to jump and ignite the fuel load. If the coil is not up to the task it will overheat, drop voltage, skip cylinders and eventually fail. On the other hand installing a 80KV coil in a stock motor will probably show no improvement other than the coil will run very cool.
On older cars the stock systems leave lots of room for improvement Mopars and Fords run a ballasted power wire to the ignition coil which reduces the voltage to the coil to 5.5-6V, this is great for longevity in a stock application but once you start changing the fuel from 98-105 octane to 93 at best, add 10 to 20% alcohol, fuel pump lubricants, injector cleaner and then remove the lead you better make some changes if you expect it to run properly. Today's fuels require a hotter spark and more initial timing to accomplish the task at hand. Coil technology is a big part of being able to burn modern fuels and I think you'll agree that they aren't going to get any better in the next 5-10-20 years. Take a look at a late model vehicle, most have a coil for each cylinder or 1 coil for each pair of cylinders, the computer controls the delay in the firing of each coil to build huge voltage numbers to fire the hottest spark possible in the combustion chamber to light off about any fuel you can pour into the tank. All that combined with a massive quantity of sensors telling the computer everything from O2 readings, engine temp, throttle position, barometric pressures and a whole list of other engine details allows the computer to tune the engine on the fly. In our classics we have a timing light, a jet pack and a screwdriver.
Just a couple of notes....
*These new square epoxy coils by MSD, Crane, Daytona and a variety of others are not some new engineering feat, they are simple coil designs taken from modern Fords, Dodges and GM cars.
*Most aftermarket coils are Made in China, just because they look like an Andover USA design don't be fooled read the label and know what your buying. MSD Blaster coils for example were designed and built by Andover for many years, MSD took their technology to China to have them copied and made cheaper...They are NOT an Andover USA Coil. Pertronix is just as guilty, READ the Label.
*Andover Coils is a USA company that has been involved in the manufacturing and design of high quality Coils for nearly 100 years. They still produce the Best coils in this industry OEM or Aftermarket all Made by American workers with American raw materials. Read the label if it says Made in USA it was probably made by Andover. We use nothing but Andover Coils in all our ignition kits.
Multi spark systems
So now lets look at what happens at the extremes of the MS (multi
spark) systems.
Without getting into the intricate circuitry of these performance
boxes I'll try to clarify what they do and why.
I've overheard people proclaim that the MS (Multi-spark) boxes put
out anywhere from 3 to 50 signals to the plug every time the pickup coil
sends a signal.
The facts are....below 3000 RPM the MS units fire the plug about 12 times,
over 3000 they simply send one shot to the plug. When we run these
boxes on our Buzz Box with a plug attached you can actually hear the
tone of the spark change and it's not subtle, it's a definite change
of pitch.
Cap/Rotor Phasing:
This is another part of the ignition tune-up that is almost never
addressed. So called Super Tune shops are aware of this inherent
problem with all distributors and it's one of the first things
they check.
Phasing is getting the spark signal to the plug correctly by aligning the
rotor, cap contacts and reluctor peaks so the spark travels to the plug at the instant
that the components are aligned or phased.
Stock distributors almost never do this, the rotor is either
not yet at the contact or it has long since past it's optimum point.
What this does is cause the spark to have to jump or arch to the cap, this
causes heat energy and overloading of the coil. If we go back to basic physics we know that
"Energy cannot be created or destroyed it can only change form" so what
we do here is convert electrical energy to heat energy and effectively
reduce the power of the spark as RPM increases and pressure in the cylinder
increases causing a higher resistance for the plugs the spark efficiency
is drastically reduced...result....poor performance...lost HP and tork.
The cause of this phasing problem is multiple, the biggest thing
we find is the vacuum advance plate on a Mopar distributor is really a
poor design allowing it to tip and wobble in the distributor housing....when
you get your Stage 2 distributor back from us you'll find that plate welded solid
and the advance curve is controlled by the weights and springs. Bad bushings,
worn gears, poor factory tolerance, cheap caps and rotors can all contribute
to or multiply the phasing problems.
It's very common to find a Mopar distributor with the phasing so
far off that at around 5000 RPM and up the rotor will get confused and
start arching to either the contact ahead or behind it's position....ever
heard this "I have a high speed miss I just can't find".....
Buying an MSD or other high dollar distributor does not mean it's in
phase, probably no better than a stock distributor. They all need to be
phased and curved to your specific application.
Review
Automotive ignition timing advance consists of three components:
Initial timing, centrifugal advance, and vacuum advance.
INITIAL TIMING - Is the amount of timing in the motor at idle with no
vacuum advance connected.
CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE - Is controlled by the engine RPM, and
will increase as the engine's RPM increases. The centrifugal
advance is controlled by the weights and springs and limited to a total
mechanical advance by various types of stops inside the distributor. The RPM
that the total mechanical comes all in at is determined by the engine specs,
gear ratio, tire diameter, convertor stall and fuel octane level.
VACUUM ADVANCE - Is a function of the engine manifold vacuum.
As the engine vacuum decreases, the vacuum advance will
decrease. At full throttle, engine vacuum is zero and vacuum
advance is zero so it has no track effect on the timing.
TOTAL ADVANCE - Is the total of initial advance, centrifugal
advance under power. 18* initial plus 18* mechanical equals 36* total
timing under power and at RPM.
When using our Stage 2 Distributor the total would be the sum of
the Initial and the Mechanical.
Stage 3 distributors have no advance mechanism they are locked
and the total timing is set and remains the same at any RPM.
The Tune-up
So now we're building a recipe for a performance tune-up and through
these discussions we've determined that:
1. Carb selection is done by cam duration, compression ratio, gearing,
RPM and CID.
2. Ignition systems need to have the correct coil based on RPM and
combustion chamber pressure. A high RPM coil can be made to work well with the addition
on a MS box to multiple fire the plug at low RPM and once it gets into
the higher end of the RPM band it does the job well with a single spark
pulse.
3. Initial Timing is determined by the ability of the carb to read
the manifold signal at idle, combustion chamber efficiency and design,
cam overlap and cylinder pressure.
4. Phasing of the cap and rotor is critical to ultimate performance
and just as important as new plugs and wires.
5. Advance curve of the distributor is critical to overall performance
and is also a major factor in selection of fuel octane level.
Although there are many other fine details that need to be looked
at for each of the above, this is a simple list giving you a good general
scope of the science of a performance tune-up.
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Ignition
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