Driveline Q & A

We constantly get questions regarding driveline measuring, construction and quality issues.

We use Denny's Driveshafts only, the quality is unsurpassed and the service is the best in the industry.  We pay exactly what you pay, the only reason we use Denny's shafts is because of the quality, warrantee and customer service..they're simply the best bang for your buck, period!

This is one of those products that we don't sell so in keeping with our policy of "If we can't supply it, we'll tell you where the best place to buy it is" we strongly recommend that you order your shaft from Denny.

Here's the link to their web site:

Denny's

Just to answer a few FAQ:

This Q&A section is taken directly from Denny's Driveshafts, copying or reproducing this information for commercial use is prohibited, a violation of copywrite laws and is not allopwed without written permission from Denny's Driveshaft.

How much slip travel should I have?
         In most applications the minimum is 3/4 inch and more than 1 inch is not
         necessary. This is measured with the rear suspension supported on safety
         stands or with the rear end on the ground.

How tight should I tighten my u-bolts?
         1310 series and 1330 series should be tightened to 17 ft/lbs and 1350 series to
         20 ft/lbs. You should never tighten the nuts on any u-bolt excessively. This will
         cause the cap to distort and the u-joint will fail prematurely.

How often should I add grease to my non greaseable u-joints?
         Never! Just leave them alone and they will last for a very long time. You can do
         more harm than good by taking them apart.

How often should I grease my greaseable u-joints?
         Greaseable u-joints should be greased every 3000 miles or possibly more
         often. You cannot over grease a greaseable u-joint.

Why does my rear u-joint wear out so often?
         This is usually the case when a u-bolt style pinion yoke is used. The pinion yoke
         is not the problem the overtightening of the u-bolt is the cause of the failure. You

         may find that every time you change the damaged rear u-joint you will find that
         one or both of the journals or caps that are under the u-bolts are destroyed and
         the ones that are pressed into the shaft are still in good shape. You did it to
         yourself! 17 ft/lbs for 1310 & 1330 series and 20 ft/lbs on the 1350 series.

Why do I continue to break u-joints?
         The answer can be that the u-joint series is too small for the application. Or
         possibly you are using an inexpensive parts store u-joint that does not offer
         strength. Maybe you are using a greaseable u-joint and it is breaking across the
         grease fitting hole. The corresponding yoke is damaged or distorted and
         causing premature failure.

Why did my driveshaft tubing twist or break?
         There are many reasons. If you are using a stock driveshaft in a racing
         application then you already know the answer. Stock shafts should never be
         used for racing. If you had a driveshaft built by a driveline shop and it has broken
         or twisted the tubing then you should take it back to where you bought it. They
         apparently built your driveshaft with tubing that was similar to stock driveline
         tubing or possibly selected a tube diameter or thickness that was not correct for
         your application. Just because the shop builds dump truck shafts does not
         mean it can handle the requirements of a race car.

How much driveline angle is right for my application?
         That's a loaded question. The best answer is....the least amount of driveline or
         u-joint angle is the best amount of angle. Try to achieve the least amount of
         u-joint angle but don't make it less than 1 degree. A little known fact about
         u-joints is that they require about 1 degree of operating angle to get the needle
         bearings rotating. If they do not rotate they will fail. Too much angle will also
         cause them to fail. The type of rear suspension also plays a big part in setting
         the angles as well as the engine/transmission angle. Leaf spring cars have a
         need for more downward pinion angle due to spring wrap-up while coil spring
         cars control the situation better. Hard acceleration as in the case of a drag race
         car requires a different setting than a street driven car. Traction bars, ladder
         bars, 4 links, independent rears all have special needs and requirements.

My driveshaft is too short.  Can I put on a longer slip yoke to make it fit better?
         This is a common problem and many times this seems like an inexpensive way
         to make it fit better but this type of fix should be avoided. We never recommend
         installing a longer slip yoke when the shaft is actually too short for the
         application. Some transmission slip yokes are available with a longer barrel but
         they were designed longer for a specific application and not for the purpose of
         extending a shaft.  Using one on a driveshaft that is actually too short for the
         application can lead to vibration and output shaft bushing failure.  In extreme
         cases the internal spline can twist and bind up the slip movement. Don't do it!

My driveshaft is too short. Can you add a little tubing to it to make it longer?
         No. The correct way to lengthen a driveshaft is to remove both weld yokes and
         install a new tube of the proper length.

When is it necessary to upgrade to 1350 series?
         It is always a good choice to upgrade to the 1350 series components whenever
         your application is used for racing or with high horsepower and street use.
         Stock driveshafts were designed to handle a modest amount of horsepower. If
         your application has more than 400 horsepower then its time to consider a new
         shaft.

How do I correctly measure for a new drive line?

Click here for printable directions. Copy write protected and not for commercial reproduction


 
 

Why do we recommend them so strongly?

FREE LIFETIME LABOR.......Another reason why DENNY'S is #1
     All driveshafts that we build are entitled to FREE LIFETIME LABOR to the original purchaser.   This is just another one of DENNY'S ways to make sure that your driveshaft is always in perfect condition. We give you the very best product and the very best service for as long as you own it. Changing a transmission or a rear end
     can mean that the driveshaft will need to be altered. Or someday after you have put a good number of runs or miles through your universal joints you may want them changed just to "freshen up" the driveshaft as preventive maintenance. Or you may  have been involved in an accident and would like the shaft checked out for damage.

     Parts are at a 40% discounted price. The labor is FREE. If no one other than  DENNY'S works on your driveshaft, then in the most unlikely event that a problem  should come up, you'll never hear the word "VOID" from us.  This really is a great deal and it doesn't cost you if you use it...but it can cost you if you don't. Think about it. Call for details. Please note that retubing or lengthening a steel driveshaft is not covered by our Free Lifetime Labor policy. Please note there are special restrictions for Aluminum Shafts...please call for details.  Also one very important point to  remember is that the stickers that we put on the driveshaft when it was shipped must  remain on the shaft and cannot be removed to receive any Free Lifetime Labor.
     Please Call (716) 875-6640 for questions and pricing

No Shop should be without one of these another reason why we recommend them.

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